Rebatched Lavender Green Tea Soap

I love learning new crafts and picking up new hobbies. Making soap is my new obsession, thanks to inspiration from Tiffany and her awesome tutorial. After following a few soap recipes with success, I decided it was time to venture off and create my own recipe. I was inspired by some green tea I had at my house and decided to add lavender essential oil. I loved the combination!

The next day, I went to cut my soap and…failure. It was still as soft as when I had originally poured it in the mold. I thought I’d just wait another day to see what would happen. No change. I waited another day. Nothing. At this point, I was really frustrated but determined that these soap ingredients would not go to waste.

My soaping solution came in the form of rebatching. Rebatching involves taking soap that has already been made, melting it, adding any necessary ingredients and then letting it cure as usual. Before starting the rebatching process, I checked my recipe to find my mistake and realized I probably poured the soap into the mold before it truly reached trace. Just in case my ingredients were also off a little, I’ll wait to share my recipe until I try it again and make sure it’s 100% correct.

If you’ve tried making soap and it hasn’t gone quite as planned, have no fear! You can almost always rescue your ingredients through rebatching. For detailed instructions, check out “How to Rebatch Soap” and “Troubleshooting Your Botched Batch“. I followed the instructions to rebatch using a crock-pot and found everything else I needed in those articles to fix my lavender green tea soap.

Have you had any DIY mistakes you were able to fix? How did you find a solution?

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  1. Yes my 5th HP. I had used my oven until I ran across a cheap crock pot at my local Salvation Army store. I bought it getting home so excited about making a batch in it vice the oven. Well something horrible has gone wrong. The oils and lye separated and never came together so I took a bar of some soap I had made grated it threw it in and wamp it thicken to much. Determined not to waste the ingredients I’ve tried some water and few other things in it, poured it and now I’m afraid to even look at it.

    • So sorry to hear you’ve had soaping frustrations! I don’t have much experience with HP soap. The articles I linked above (“How to Rebatch Soap” and “Troubleshooting Your Botched Batch“) were really helpful when I was trying to fix my batch. I hope you’re able to find a solution!

  2. Hi I know most soapers use the CP methods but I find HP is a little quicker. I still allow my soaps to cure for a mimim of 4 weeks before I sell them. I feel it makes a better quality bar. Thanks for the links they help much

    • Thank you for sharing! 🙂 The only downside to hot process is that the prolonged exposure to heat can weaken the fragrance of essential oils, but aside from that the resulting quality is very similar!

      • Tiffany, no it actually doesn’t weaken the fragrance. Once it has cured for 2 to 3 weeks the fragrance is very nice and I use about half what is recommended per pound. After I take the pot out of the oven I give it a couple of minutes to cool a bit then add my additives. You should give it a try it is very rewarding indeed. I have many customers who love the light fragrance (which is what I strive for) and the creamy texture of my HP soaps. Thanks for your input I am enjoying this conversation. You are the reason I started my own blog, you all inspired to to step out of my comfort zone. Be Blessed.

        • Aww that’s so nice to hear!! I definitely don’t mean to imply that the fragrance is not good from hot process soap. It is definitely very good, but compared to cold process, the prolonged exposure to heat can alter and/or weaken the original scent. Both processes are very high quality though and most people do want a more subtle scent in their soaps so it’s only a drawback if you are picky about having a stronger fragrance without having to compensate by adding more EO. 🙂

          • Thanks for the reply, again you have inspired me to venture out in the world of blogging. Be blessed.

          • I know this is old, and I’m not sure if you’ve found this out yet. But with HP soap you should allow it to cool slightly once the saponification process has finished and then add fragrance. There will be no prolonged exposure that way. If you add the fragrance when the soap is still to hot it will evaporate. But otherwise it should be just fine

  3. I am very new to soap making. Three weeks ago I tried a melt and pour that came out lovely looking n smelling like a piece of pumpkin pie but I felt like it was kind of a cheat. Plus involved a lot of little extras. Then I tried a couple of different recipes and they set up very nicely, though only two weeks old so still waiting to use.the last batch was the orang olive on this site (I believe it is this site- I have been surfing so many) but I decided to use a eucalyptus mint EO instead of the orange and I surely calculated the amount too high. The soap is only a couple days old but has a VERY strong overpowering scent. I’ve been reading up on the rebatching and am willing to give it a shot but unsure what I am adding to tone this down. Just some additional liquid? It is solid so there seem to be no other issues with it. I was thinking some coconut milk? The oils were coconut, canola, and olive. Also–your site is great. The detailed instructions for beginner filled in some blanks left out of the book I purchase and the numerous other sites I visited. Thank you. 😉

    • So glad you like the site and welcome to soapmaking! Sometimes the fragrance can tone down as the soap cures. Some scents (like mint) are very prominent and require you to use a smaller percentage of that fragrance in your recipe so it doesn’t overpower the soap. If you do rebatch, you can’t necessarily just add a liquid, otherwise your lye to oil ratio would be off. You’d need to figure out exactly how much liquid and lye you need to add when rebatching in order to have the correct lye to oil ration. If you just add oils, your soap may not harden if there is not enough lye in the rebatched recipe. Hope that helps and happy soaping!

  4. Paula Poteat says:

    If I have to rebatch, I like to use a kettle of simmering water and cut soaps into chunks and place in a double bag of zip lock bags. Take out every few minutes and knead the soap until melted. When melted, open and add fragrances or oils if desired. Snip the corner and squeeze into your mould.


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